John Elle's AMC front spring perch bushing fix

One of the things that's unobtainable for AMC cars (small chassis, 69 up) is the rubber-bushed spring perch, and they all go bad. Luckily, John Elle worked out a replacement using urethane bushings. It assumes the metal parts are OK, but they usually are. This fix seems to be well accepted.

I did this fix on my 1970 Hornet project car; to the right is a partially-assembled version, and here the assembly can be seen. It had 40,000 miles on it when I sold the car, with no problems to that time.

What follows is an emailed description of the fix.


From: "Todd & Kari Jesme" 
Subject: Re: Spring seat bushings...
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:17:23 -0600

Keleigh,

below is a message John Elle sent me a
couple years ago.  I followed his
instructions and it worked out perfect,
as planned.

Todd Jesme
Minnesota

"Todd, If you look at the lower spring
mount it mounts on the upper control arm
by two bolts. The spindle is what is
bolted to the upper control arm and it
goes through the lower spring mount
encased in rubber. If it is bad you will
have to replace or repair it. It is made
of unobtainium. I have seen them metal
to metal as the rubber has died.

If  you call up Performance Suspension
Components on 3001 N. 35th Ave.  Phoenix
Arizona 85017. Info 602-272-4085  or
Order: 1-800-572-3768 and ask for Spring
bushing #ENE2048G  you can get a
Polyurethane bushing that will work.
Order 2 per side for a total of 4 to be
used on the front end of the car. They
will cost about $1.75 per/bushing for a
total of $6.80 per/front end plus tax
(if applicable) and shipping.To install
them you must remove the spindle
assembly by pressing out the to mounting
bolts and then press the spindle through
the existing rubber bushing and clean
out all of the old dead rubber and
install the replacement bushings on each
side and press the spindle back in and
install the mounting bolts. It will go
together easier than it comes apart. It
will drop into the upper arm and the
shoulder of the new bushings will fit
down inside the cavity of the control
arm to insure that these parts will not
walk out of place. This works out real
well for me and I think that it will for
anyone else.  Make sure that you used
the lubricant that comes with these
things as it is really slippery and icky
as hell but it does help prevent
squeaks.  While you have them on the
line also ask for the generic
polyurethane ball joint dust shields and
the dust shields to use on the tie rod
ends etc.  They will last forever if you
use them instead of the dust shields
that come with your rebuild pieces. I
have had all of the ball joint dust
shield fail inside of a year. I never
had that happen with OEM pieces but sure
as toot'in, I am not going to have it
happen again. I just found out about
these pieces about a year ago.  Good
luck John T Elle"



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